"There's no need for a piece of sculpture in a home that has a cat." ~
Wesley Bates
Cat Housebreaking-Problem Solving I love this ball of yarn!
"An Ounce of Prevention"
1. Have your cat spayed or neutered. (In the case of a cat from the Northwoods Humane
Society this will have been taken care of unless your new cat is too young) Sexually mature,
intact cats frequently use urine and fecal marking to indicate their territory. Neutering will
correct nearly all elimination problems.
2. The rule of thumb for the number of litter boxes is one per cat in the household. Extra litter
boxes are necessary because some cats like to defecate in one box and urinate in another.
Others will not use a box that has been soiled by another cat.
3. Clean the litterboxes daily. The single most common reason for a cat's refusal to use a
litter box is because the box is dirty. Non-clumping litter should be scooped every day and
the entire box emptied and washed every other day. Clumping litter should be scooped at
least daily and the litterbox must be washed if it becomes soiled.
4. Choose a litter that appeals to the cat. Most cats prefer and texture of the sand-like
clumping litters. Be sure to choose a brand that clumps into a firm ball. This makes
scooping easier and cleaner. As a health precaution for young kittens who might ingest litter
don't start using the clumping litter until they are 4 months old.
5. Never use scented litter. They may appeal to humans but perfumed, chemical scents
repel cats. Use a mild detergent to wash the box and no harsh chemicals that could leave
an odor. If you feel the box needs sanitizing chlorine bleach is the safest as long as the box
if thoroughly rinsed and dried.
6. Do not use box liners. They can be very irritating to some cats. Some cats are put of by
hooded or covered boxes. Be sure the box is large enough. The minimum size is 22" x 16".
7. Place litterboxes in quiet, private places that are easily accessible to the cat and where it
will not be disturbed by children or other pets. (PLEASE NOTE: For cats new to a home or
small kittens: Place the box where it's very easy for the cat to find it and be sure the cat
knows that it's there! Don't expect a new resident or tiny kitten to find it's way through a large
home or to negotiate stairs to find it's box!) Keep litterboxes away form food and water
dishes for obvious reasons.
8. While kittens have an innate predisposition to use loose material as their litter, they may
also choose other locations. You should limit their territory until they learn that the litterbox is
the only acceptable place for elimination. Praise and rewards can speed the learning
process. And once again....like small children, they should not be expected to travel very far
to find their toilet area(s).
9. When introducing a new cat into the home, confine the cat to one room with it's litterbox,
toys, food, water and bed. Wait until it has used the litterbox several times and is showing
an interest in exploring the rest of the house.
10. Help your cat feel comfortable in it's new home and territory. Play some games with him,
give him a massage, talk to him frequently. Give him positive and affectionate attention. A
confident, secure and relaxed cat does not need to relieve stress and anxiety by such
extreme measures as urine or fecal marking.
11. A very few cats simply have peculiar litterbox preferences. Some like smooth or soft
surfaces and will use the bathtub or the floor next to the litterbox. Try offering the cat a box
lined only with newspaper or nothing at all. (Declawed cats have more of a reputation for
doing this than others.)
12. Have your cat checked by your veterinarian for a physical problem. Be sure to mention
your cats urination and defecation habits and any changes you have observed. If a cat
experiences painful elimination he may learn to associate it with his litterbox so the sooner
the problem is dealt with the fewer problems for later! If a physical problem is found the cat
may need to go through the introduction process again once he is well.
13. Review the above steps for preventing problems. Perhaps the solution could be as easy
as adding another box, more frequent cleaning or changing the brand of litter. Try to
accommodate the cats preferences in location as much as possible.
14. Never punish the cat for eliminating outside of it's box. House soiling occurs when the
litterbox, it's contents or location are offensive to the cat or when the cat is stressed by
something in it's environment. Punishment only increases the stress.
15. If aversion to the litterbox has been ruled out, consider whether the problem could be
anxiety related. Has there been a change in the household? Any intrusion in the cat's
territory, whether human or animal can cause a cat to feel threatened, insecure and
stressed. This results in his need to remind himself and the world of his territory. Territorial
marking is usually accomplished by spraying urine on vertical surfaces or, less frequently,
by squatting and urinating or defecating on horizontal surfaces. The more cats in a
household, the more likely that one of them may mark.
16. Try to eliminate the source of the cats anxiety. (For example, pull the drapes so that the
cat cannot see the Tom cat next door.) If the cause cannot be identified or eliminated,
consult with an experienced feline behavioral counselor.
17.Whatever the cause of the inappropriate elimination, a brief period of confinement may
be necessary in which you should clean the soiled areas, place deterrents and purchase an
additional litterbox or new litter. The confinement should be in a comfortable, familiar room
and should contain two litterboxes, fresh food and water, bed and toys. Visit your cat
regularly and give him attention but don't let him out until the cleaning is completed and the
litterbox situation has been improved. (Please note that extended periods of confinement
can be detrimental to the retraining process.) When the cat has been let out it is important to
praise appropriate behavior.
18. In order to thoroughly clean urine soaked areas a black light may be used and a strong
enzymatic cleaner should be used to saturate and thus neutralize them. NEVER use Lysol
around cats! To further repel the cat from those areas cover them with pieces of vinyl carpet
runner placed upside down, a solid air freshened or bowls of cat food may also work.
19. Take Heart! Housebreaking problems can be solved with patience, good observation,
persistence and a systematic plan.
Bringing Your New Kitty Home
Introducing a New Cat to Resident Cat (Cats)
Introducing a New Dog to Resident Dog (Dogs)
Introducing a New Cat to Resident Dog (Dogs)
Introducing a New Dog to Resident Cat (Cats)
Cat Housebreaking Troubles
Dog Housebreaking Problems
Facts About Declawing Your Cat
Benefits of Altering Your Cat
Benefits of Altering Your Dog
Lead Training
Small Children and Puppies
Outdoor Dogs
Hot Weather Care For Pets
You Can't Find Good Homes For All of Them
Have You Walked Your Dog Today?
Dogs and the 4th of July
Does Your Dog Ride in the Back of a Pickup Truck?
Wesley Bates
Cat Housebreaking-Problem Solving I love this ball of yarn!
"An Ounce of Prevention"
1. Have your cat spayed or neutered. (In the case of a cat from the Northwoods Humane
Society this will have been taken care of unless your new cat is too young) Sexually mature,
intact cats frequently use urine and fecal marking to indicate their territory. Neutering will
correct nearly all elimination problems.
2. The rule of thumb for the number of litter boxes is one per cat in the household. Extra litter
boxes are necessary because some cats like to defecate in one box and urinate in another.
Others will not use a box that has been soiled by another cat.
3. Clean the litterboxes daily. The single most common reason for a cat's refusal to use a
litter box is because the box is dirty. Non-clumping litter should be scooped every day and
the entire box emptied and washed every other day. Clumping litter should be scooped at
least daily and the litterbox must be washed if it becomes soiled.
4. Choose a litter that appeals to the cat. Most cats prefer and texture of the sand-like
clumping litters. Be sure to choose a brand that clumps into a firm ball. This makes
scooping easier and cleaner. As a health precaution for young kittens who might ingest litter
don't start using the clumping litter until they are 4 months old.
5. Never use scented litter. They may appeal to humans but perfumed, chemical scents
repel cats. Use a mild detergent to wash the box and no harsh chemicals that could leave
an odor. If you feel the box needs sanitizing chlorine bleach is the safest as long as the box
if thoroughly rinsed and dried.
6. Do not use box liners. They can be very irritating to some cats. Some cats are put of by
hooded or covered boxes. Be sure the box is large enough. The minimum size is 22" x 16".
7. Place litterboxes in quiet, private places that are easily accessible to the cat and where it
will not be disturbed by children or other pets. (PLEASE NOTE: For cats new to a home or
small kittens: Place the box where it's very easy for the cat to find it and be sure the cat
knows that it's there! Don't expect a new resident or tiny kitten to find it's way through a large
home or to negotiate stairs to find it's box!) Keep litterboxes away form food and water
dishes for obvious reasons.
8. While kittens have an innate predisposition to use loose material as their litter, they may
also choose other locations. You should limit their territory until they learn that the litterbox is
the only acceptable place for elimination. Praise and rewards can speed the learning
process. And once again....like small children, they should not be expected to travel very far
to find their toilet area(s).
9. When introducing a new cat into the home, confine the cat to one room with it's litterbox,
toys, food, water and bed. Wait until it has used the litterbox several times and is showing
an interest in exploring the rest of the house.
10. Help your cat feel comfortable in it's new home and territory. Play some games with him,
give him a massage, talk to him frequently. Give him positive and affectionate attention. A
confident, secure and relaxed cat does not need to relieve stress and anxiety by such
extreme measures as urine or fecal marking.
11. A very few cats simply have peculiar litterbox preferences. Some like smooth or soft
surfaces and will use the bathtub or the floor next to the litterbox. Try offering the cat a box
lined only with newspaper or nothing at all. (Declawed cats have more of a reputation for
doing this than others.)
12. Have your cat checked by your veterinarian for a physical problem. Be sure to mention
your cats urination and defecation habits and any changes you have observed. If a cat
experiences painful elimination he may learn to associate it with his litterbox so the sooner
the problem is dealt with the fewer problems for later! If a physical problem is found the cat
may need to go through the introduction process again once he is well.
13. Review the above steps for preventing problems. Perhaps the solution could be as easy
as adding another box, more frequent cleaning or changing the brand of litter. Try to
accommodate the cats preferences in location as much as possible.
14. Never punish the cat for eliminating outside of it's box. House soiling occurs when the
litterbox, it's contents or location are offensive to the cat or when the cat is stressed by
something in it's environment. Punishment only increases the stress.
15. If aversion to the litterbox has been ruled out, consider whether the problem could be
anxiety related. Has there been a change in the household? Any intrusion in the cat's
territory, whether human or animal can cause a cat to feel threatened, insecure and
stressed. This results in his need to remind himself and the world of his territory. Territorial
marking is usually accomplished by spraying urine on vertical surfaces or, less frequently,
by squatting and urinating or defecating on horizontal surfaces. The more cats in a
household, the more likely that one of them may mark.
16. Try to eliminate the source of the cats anxiety. (For example, pull the drapes so that the
cat cannot see the Tom cat next door.) If the cause cannot be identified or eliminated,
consult with an experienced feline behavioral counselor.
17.Whatever the cause of the inappropriate elimination, a brief period of confinement may
be necessary in which you should clean the soiled areas, place deterrents and purchase an
additional litterbox or new litter. The confinement should be in a comfortable, familiar room
and should contain two litterboxes, fresh food and water, bed and toys. Visit your cat
regularly and give him attention but don't let him out until the cleaning is completed and the
litterbox situation has been improved. (Please note that extended periods of confinement
can be detrimental to the retraining process.) When the cat has been let out it is important to
praise appropriate behavior.
18. In order to thoroughly clean urine soaked areas a black light may be used and a strong
enzymatic cleaner should be used to saturate and thus neutralize them. NEVER use Lysol
around cats! To further repel the cat from those areas cover them with pieces of vinyl carpet
runner placed upside down, a solid air freshened or bowls of cat food may also work.
19. Take Heart! Housebreaking problems can be solved with patience, good observation,
persistence and a systematic plan.
Bringing Your New Kitty Home
Introducing a New Cat to Resident Cat (Cats)
Introducing a New Dog to Resident Dog (Dogs)
Introducing a New Cat to Resident Dog (Dogs)
Introducing a New Dog to Resident Cat (Cats)
Cat Housebreaking Troubles
Dog Housebreaking Problems
Facts About Declawing Your Cat
Benefits of Altering Your Cat
Benefits of Altering Your Dog
Lead Training
Small Children and Puppies
Outdoor Dogs
Hot Weather Care For Pets
You Can't Find Good Homes For All of Them
Have You Walked Your Dog Today?
Dogs and the 4th of July
Does Your Dog Ride in the Back of a Pickup Truck?
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